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A Taste of the Sea Richmond may be landlocked, but Milepost 5 Does a decent job of reeling in the beach. by Brad Bradley Style Weekly/December 8,1999 |
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The hunt for seafood recently took us out Midlothian Turnpike to Sycamore Square, a charming Williamsburg-esque cluster of shops, where we found Mile Post 5. The name quickly evoked memories of Kitty Hawk, the Outer Banks and sunset cocktails on the Sound. When we entered, we were offered a choice of sides --- and I don't mean potatoes. One side of the restaurant is a cafe/bar where smokers stake their turf. The other side is more cafe-ish. But with Golf shirts, T-shirts and ball caps tacked to the wall, it's not without a sand in your shoes charm. Good Service was a highlight of our visit. We immediately felt welcome and attended to, and this set a good tone for the meal. We were disappointed to see hush puppies sold ($4.95/basket; $2.95/ half-basket) rather than supplied. However our waitress did bring us some of the best cornbread found in these parts. Upon learning that the onion rings ($4.95) were freshly made, we quickly ordered some. They came sizzling hot and delicious with a spicy-sweet honey-Dijon dressing for dipping, a step up from ketchup. In addition to a handful of combination dinners (like steak and crab legs), Milepost 5 offers alternatives to the run-of-the -mill seafood platter. A grilled combination ($16.95) consists of shrimp, sea scallops, and a choice of yellow fin tuna or salmon. The fried combination on the other hand, offers a Kitty Hawk crab cake, Frisco fried Oysters and gulfshrimp. Being a true Southerner, I frequently opt for fried. |
My guest's coconut shrimp, was the nights best buy at $14.95. Eleven large shrimp had been dipped in sweet shreds of coconut and fried to a dark, crisp brown. I found them to be wonderful. We quizzed our very patient waitress about dessert. Only one, she shared was made on-site, the wonderfully delicious Hershey-bar cream pie ($3.95) topped by clouds of whipped cream. It was as truly decadent as it sounds, something like a dense French silk pie. Our second visit to Milepost 5 was a success. We had the same server and the same enthusiastic, poised service. One child's oyster sandwich ($6.95) came as two fluffy dinner rolls stuffed with fried oysters. And there were, the plump, juicy seasoned jewels I'd so hoped for on the last visit. The addition of cheddar cheese wasn't part of the allure for me, but it added a creamy texture that was nice. I bartered some of my dinner for a few bites. Second child ordered popcorn shrimp from the kids menu and was rewarded with a mound of small, fried shrimp, undeniably frozen, but tasty nonetheless. My choice was one I'd considered on the first visit, a shrimp with pasta dish ($14.95). This was a large -- and I mean large --- plate of penne, generously drizzled with crumbled feta, fresh tomatoes and tender medium-sized shrimp. With the salad that came along, it could've been a meal for two. There's a lot of generosity of spirit here, from the greeting at the door to the charming service to the mounds of food. Only the weather reminded me that I was in land-locked Richmond. Milepost 5 1011 Sycamore Square Dr. Monday - Thursday 11a.m. - 10p.m; Friday - Saturday, 11a.m. - 11p.m.; Sunday noon-9p.m. 794-9344
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